A DAY IN HIMEJI

Just two Haiku Deck image albums to share today, but they pretty much tell the tale of a cloudy and showery day among the cherry blossoms in the city of Himeji.

Himeji castle, Japan's first World Heritage Site, was originally constructed in the early seventeenth century with a full restoration of the main keep just completed in early 2015.

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The adjacent Kokoen gardens were completed within the past decade within the compounds of various samurai mansions in the same neighborhood after the houses themselves had been removed, leaving only the walls standing - quite an interesting approach which maintains the overall physical outline of the upscale neighborhood while also providing ample space for some stunning garden venues.

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TRAVELING OUT OF TOWN

Up bright and early on a bright and sunny day, we first stopped by Fushimi Inari Taisha, a Shinto shrine on the outskirts of Kyoto, to see the thousands of commemorative torii gates erected by successful businesses grateful for the aid and support of the kami deities worshipped here.

Back on the train, we journeyed on to Nara (Japan's first permanent capita founded as Heijo in 784). Here, after a ritual lunch at MacDonalds (a custom begun in 2012 with Sean who, like Colin, was interested in comparative pricing and taste issues - yeh, right!), we hiked over to Todaiji, the largest wooden building in the world, where Colin extended the family "tradition" of crawling through the Buddha's nostril (more accurately, a hole in a pillar reputed to be that size) and fed some of the resident deer.

We continued our hike to Kasuga Shrine, home to the patron kami of the aristocratic Fujiwara family, the empire's second most important family after that of the Emperor. Crowds here waiting hours to view the seldom seen shrine treasures left us unable to see anything beyond a glimpse of some of the shrine's thousands of stone lanterns and hanging brass lamps.

Our final trek took us to Byodoin in Uji to see the Buddhist temple depicted on the Japanese ten yen coin. Ted and I were surprised to find the entire complex substanally transformed by a two year restoration project completed just a year ago in April 2014. The results are quite breath-taking and well worth viewing. See for yourself:

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PERFECTION PERFECTED

I have always believed Japan looks best in the rain, and yesterday proved that assumption especially nicely.

We three journeyed by subway and city bus out to Ohara on the outskirts of the city and found ourselves among the few to have decided to do the same. Despite the crowds of cherry blossom visitors in Kyoto itself, hardly anyone had decided to visit two of the most attractive sites in the nearby countryside. We pretty much had Jakko-in and Sanzenin to ourselves!

Furthermore the rain let up soon enough and the light drizzle remaining was no deterrent in the least. The result: "perfection perfected"!

Jakko-in was founded as a Buddhist nunnery at the end of the sixth century. The Abbesses assigned here were always aristocratic women of high social status. Among them was Kenreimon-in, the mother of the child emperor Antoku (who drowned in 1185 in the Battle of Dannoura during which the Minamoto defeated the Taira to gain military control of the empire). Following that defeat, she became a nun, devoting her prayers to the repose of her son and the members of the Taira clan to which she, too, belonged as the daughter of Taira Kiyomori.

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The small temple seen today is an authentic replica of the original burned to the ground in 2000. It contains reproductions of relics and statuary found in the earlier structure and is surrounded by exquisite gardens and wooded hillsides. Having the entire place essentially all to ourselves was a real pleasure. I was also VERY impressed that I understood everything the docent said in her ten minute explanation about the temple and its contents!

On our way back down the valley we stopped to bathe our feet in a hot springs coffeehouse -- probably the highlight of the day!

Across the valley and up another hill, we enjoyed a quick lunch, then visited Sanzenin with its beautiful gardens and Ojo-Gokurau-in Hall (dating to 986).

By this time, Colin had become totally immersed in capturing his experiences in digital images, moving beyond the blossoms and other fauna that had been an earlier focus.

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Before we left to walk back to the bus, I wanted to see if I could locate a huge pine tree shaped in the likeness of Mt. Fuji which I had seen on several earlier occasions but hadn't been able to find again on recent visits. While searching the neighborhood, we came upon an imposing temple I had never visited before, which Ted insisted we should add to our itinerary. Shorin-in (founded in 1013) proved a lovely interlude, nestled into the hills and surrounded by lush greenery and with a beautifully illuminated image of the Amitabha Buddha in its main hall.

Furthermore, there it was - Mt. Fuji! - glimpsed off to the right above the trees! And so, on we traipsed to visit Hosen-in where we not only wandered through yet another exquisite garden but also enjoyed a bowl of green tea served in a room looking out on a three dimensional screen painting come to life.

L

The misty hills and rain-deepened colors surrounding us the entire day added another, much appreciated, layer to all the pleasures served up on this very special excursion into the countryside. Hurray for rainy days!

 

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SPRING IS HERE! REALLY, REALLY HERE!

 

Li

Another, really lovely, warm and sunny Spring day ...

One morning chore facing travelers everywhere (if not having an easily available hotel-based alternative) is locating a decent breakfast. We wandered around a bit before stumbling on what turned out to be a great option indeed - a Seven Eleven Convenience Store!

The place had everything imaginable available, fresh and inexpensive to boot, including access to an ATM. So we replenished our supply of yen, then stocked up on orange and peach juices, a ripe banana, cinnamon rolls, chocolate croissants, and some English milk tea (before discovering, too late, that fresh-brewed hot coffee was also available).

In Japan the stores (because they often are quite small) are re-supplied several times daily with items point-of-sale computer tallies indicate are needed. The resulting efficiencies guarantee customers the freshest food available, including lots of fully-prepared meals. We know where we will be heading tomorrow when faced with the same breakfast dilemma!

Our first tour stop of the day took us through Nijo Castle, the Kyoto headquarters of the Tokugawa shogun when visiting from Edo (modern Tokyo). Always impressive, the palace complex gleams even brighter now as a result of a magnificent refurbishment of the colorful and intricately decorated entrance gate.

The gardens were well worth strolling through as well.

Next on our agenda we visited the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, Kinkakuji, splendid in the early Spring light. Here we talked about the distinctive architectural styles represented in the three story structure (with unfortunate Colin as his grandfather's sole student ) before setting out o stroll through a lovely garden up to a rustic hillside tea ceremony teahouse.

After a one dish lunch (curry rice / sukiyaki on rice / chicken nuggets with rice) and a short taxi ride with a very talkative driver, we end the day's travels with a visit to Ryoanji, the Buddhist temple site of the famous Zen racked-sand-and-stone garden. And, once again, Ted came through with some nice images worth sharing ...

 

Here's one from earlier in the day, too cute to not pass along:

At the end of the day, then, it ultimately didn't matter much that I had left my image memory card in our ryokan room.

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SAKURA, SAKURA, EVERYWHERE

In the ancient Japanese capital of Kyoto, we can report, the cherry blossoms are well and truly out everywhere - as are the crowds. We even stood in a very long (but fast moving) taxi line at Kyoto Station just to start the morning activities. No school groups, however; quite the blessing. Just lots of foreign tourists, like us.

I swore I wouldn't take any more sakura pics this time around but lasted less than thirty minutes before uncasing my camera and shooting away.

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Trying to be a bit selective otherwise in what I capture images of, I still have found some worth sharing ...

 

And to complete the image album of our first day in Kyoto, here are the three travelers doing their thing ...

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At least we're not using selfie sticks!

 

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A MINI-VACATION BREAK

A day spent resting and relaxing before successfully meeting Colin and Ted at Itami Airport in Osaka this evening and heading off to the Hotel Fine Garden, a scant fifteen minute walk away from the airport! Tomorrow morning we'll return to take the airport bus to Kyoto and get this show on the road.

How, exactly, does one engage in RnR while between accommodations?

Well, to start, one leaves luggage behind at the front desk of the hotel when checking out, taking only essentials with one for the day ahead - in my case, just an iPad, fully charged. I then followed "check out" with a leisurely breakfast at a near-by coffee shop where one can linger for hours without additional charges being leveled.

Then, on to Starbucks for a Mocha Grande mid-morning treat and another chance to sit and read for ninety minutes or so. A brisk walk around the vast underground mall surrounding the train station followed, allowing me to take in some pretty exclusive fancy new shopping experiences along with the usual Subday mobs.

Last stop? The fifteenth floor lobby of the Marriott Hotel next to the Nagoya Train Station and more free reading time. Then on by Shinkansen "bullet train" to Osaka, mission accomplished!

No new pictures today, but here's one from yesterday of a combination bus center - underground shopping mall - event space - public garden right in the middle of the city.

 

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MEETING EMPEROR AND EMPRESS IN NAGOYA

I spent my Saturday in the company of aristocracy, visiting the Tokugawa Art Museum and Garden in Nagoya and viewing, among other treasures, a number of displays associated with traditional Girl's Day observances through out Japan.

Promently featuring figures of Emperor and Empress, these seasonal tiered arrangements also display other richly-attired dolls portraying officials, servants, musicians and a variety of accoutrements associated with life among the elite.

Photography within the museum itself is otherwise prohibited, but everyone entering the lobby stopped to capture images of the displays found there - and were encouraged to do so by a prominently featured sign!

No such prohibitions were in effect in the garden, however, and the early Spring sunshine encouraged many a photographer to excess (including this one).

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